TOURING THE CYCLADES BY FERRY

[proud_ionian]

By MARVINE HOWE

June 27, 1982

The closest approximation today to the excitement of New York Harbor 30 or 40 years ago may well take place at 8 A.M. in the port of Piraeus, when a dozen or so ferryboats load passengers and cars to set off for the Greek islands. The Greek ferries have little in common with either ocean liners or the Staten Island variety, but are more like short-haul, budget cruise ships, catering increasingly to do-it-yourself travelers.

There are ferry services to the main Greek islands - Samos, Patmos, Chios, Rhodes, Crete and so on. We chose as our destination the Cyclades, the most accessible and astonishingly varied group of some 30 islands in the southern Aegean. From afar, the Cyclades appear bleached and bleak, but this is grossly misleading. Each island has its own charm: Paros with its Venetian mansions and Byzantine churches, Naxos' long beaches, the cosmopolitan life at Mykonos, the archeological paradise of Delos, the backpackers' retreat at Ios and the spectacular volcanic landscape of Thera, which is usually referred to by its old name of Santorini.

A ferryboat tour of the Cyclades is one of the best bargains in European travel these days. In off-season (October to May), if the weather is good, deck class is delightful and costs only $13 one way from Piraeus to Santorini or $17.50 if you break up the trip. When things get crowded, however, it is advisable to go tourist class to get a seat, $16 nonstop or $20 stopping off at Paros, Naxos and Ios along the way. Most of the Cycladic hotels are perfectly adequate and clean, with private showers, for under $20 double off-season and only slightly more in high season. If you like Greek food, the popular tavernas are perfectly satisfactory and sometimes superb, with dinner for two including local wine for around $10.

About the only thing the various islanders agree on is that travelers should not arrive without firm hotel bookings during the popular months of July and August. There are many tales of visitors sitting out the night in the seaside cafes at Mykonos or having to sleep on the beach at Naxos or being forced back on the boat at Siphnos.

Most island hotels open from early April to the end of October, but a number of hotels and restaurants were still closed at the beginning of May. Schedules had to be rechecked because some boats would be canceled in rough weather and some ferry lines only start operating when more tourists appear.

The National Tourist Organization in the National Bank of Greece on Constitution Square in Athens books weekly sailings from Piraeus, but emphasizes that they are subject to change without notice. The surest way to get information is to telephone the port police in Piraeus the evening before the scheduled departure. On the islands, information is even harder to come by since travel agencies generally represent only two or three boats and are not inclined to talk about other sailings. You usually end up making a round of all the agencies.

source: The New York Times

[proud_ionian]

It is not so easy to circle the Cyclades-their name, which comes from the Greek for ''circle,'' notwithstanding. There are three main ferry lines from Piraeus: the Santorini line, which takes about 12 hours with stops; the Milos line, about eight hours, and the Mykonos line, about six hours. But it is very difficult to change from one line to the other. Nevertheless, through trial and persistence, we succeeded in taking a 10-day island tour by ferry that could compete favorably with any luxury cruise.

We took the Santorini line first, staying on for a couple of days at each stop. You cannot get an open ticket, but must buy tickets for specific boats as you go along, which gives more flexibility. It is not necessary to get tickets in advance off-season since you can pick them up at the boat before sailing time. If you want a cabin, though, it is better to reserve one.

The tourist organization recommended the Lemnos, which is the most popular ferry for Santorini, but we were a day late and so took the Nirefs to our first stop, at Paros. The 2,050-ton ferry sailed with only 300 passengers (it carries more than 1,000 in season) and there was sunbathing space for all.

Some of the passengers were bound for Samos. There was a group of six midwives from Germany with sleeping bags, who planned to do the islands until their money ran out. A retired airline employee from Brisbane and his wife were going to Paros and would stay as long as they liked the place. A French nurse said she came to Paros every year, but expressed concern that it would be spoiled - ''like Mykonos.''

On first sight, Paros was a shock, with its tawdry hamburger, pizza and discotheque signs along the lovely bay. But the first impression was unfair, as proved by a walk through the chief town, Paroikia. The medieval Venetian fortress remains unspoiled, with its thick whitewashed walls, narrow cobblestone alleys, quaint chapels and marble fountains. Be sure to visit the Church of One Hundred Doors (a slight exaggeration), which has splendid icons and marble columns and bells hanging in the cypress tree in the courtyard. The nearby archeological museum contains several fine marble statues of young men, marble sarcophaguses with impressive bas-reliefs from the Roman period and the Parian Chronicle, a marble slab with names from Greek mythology.

From Paroikia, a 70-cent bus ride takes you to Lefkes, in the center of the island, a village with no hotels and only one cafe visible. Lefkes is dominated by the huge Aghia Triadha church with its marble towers, built in the 19th century when the island's marble quarries were flourishing. Now the village appears almost deserted except for some old farmers and women weaving blankets.

A short distance beyond Lefkes, the bus winds down to the coast and the fishing port of Piso Livadi with its restaurants, pensions and new summer homes and nearby beaches, like that of Logares.

If you make Paroikia your base, there's the new Nikolas Hotel, overlooking the port, where a double including breakfast and taxes is about $19 ($21 from July 1 to Sept. 14). Two retired California women who came to Paros to study the wildflowers recommended the Xenia next door although they were having trouble getting hot water off-season.

Paros has a profusion of good tavernas, like Dimitris, where a dinner of roast pork or beef, Greek salad and wine for two comes to about $10. We did not try Nick's Hamburgers, although they are reputedly the best in Greece. Nick is said to be a graduate of McDonald's in Dayton, Ohio.

Islanders advised us to stay in Naoussa, a fishing village 15 minutes by local bus from Paroikia, and they were right. The first thing to do in Naoussa is to see Cathy Gavalas, who, with her husband, Kostas, runs Nissiotissa Tourist Office on the main square. Mrs. Gavalas spent 20 years in northern New Jersey, and will solve any problem, whether you need a room, excursion, donkey ride or laxative.

We stayed in the Hotel Mary, where a double room and shower costs $17 ($21.25 in high season). The Hotel Kalypso on the beach was even nicer and only $16.60 for a double and breakfast.

In Naoussa, you can walk to nearby beaches for windsurfing or waterskiing or simply stroll around the port watching the fishermen mend their nets. The best taverna in the village is Christos, where a good dinner and wine for two comes to about $17.

[proud_ionian]

The next ferry stop is Naxos, the largest of the Cyclades, but probably the least touristic. ''Naxos' town life centers along the waterfront in view of Ariadne's Gate. It is fun to sit in a seafront cafe and watch the fishermen and boats come in. Or you can walk up through the old Venetian fortress's narrow alleys and see the small chapels and mansions and visit the museum with its Mycenean jars and Cycladic grave figurines.

They say the best beach in the Cyclades is at Ormos Agiasou, but there's no road and you have to get there by boat. Otherwise you can hike to Agia Ana beach or take a taxi for $12. The best way to see the inland villages is by moped at almost $7 a day or motorcycle at $16.60.

The best hotel in Naxos town is the Ariadne, built 23 years ago, but not all of its 22 rooms have a bath. We stayed at the Glaros on the outskirts of town, owned by Iannis Franjescso, a 38-year-old commercial artist. This season, he opened a restaurant in the cellar.

From Naxos, we took the Lemnos ferryboat to Santorini. Many of the backpackers got off at Ios, which is known among foreigners for its good beaches, swinging discos and inexpensive living. Greeks generally disapprove of what's happening at Ios, particularly the drugs.

Santorini is one of the the most spectacular sights in the world. The ferry sails right into the crater, which, it is said, was formed about 1500 B.C. when a volcano erupted and the center of the island sank into the sea, giving rise to later speculation that this was lost Atlantis.

In the old days, getting to clifftop Thera was an adventure. Boats would disembark passengers by lighter and they would have to climb the 587 rough cobblestone stairs or go up by often-capricious mules. Lately the ferryboats have been docking at Athinio port and passengers can make the less perilous journey by bus or taxi. But cruise ships still force people to do the mule run. This season, however, a cable car is beginning operations, not without protest from the mule drivers, who charged $2.50 a ride.

The cable car is a gift to the community from the shipowner Evanghelos Nomikos, who also owns Thera's best hotel, the Atlantis. Overlooking the crater and town, the Atlantis has only 25 rooms and reservations are necessary. A double in low season is $46.50, in high season $55.57. The Hotel Lucas, with an even better view and 19 rooms, charges $13.50 for a double with shower off-season.

Thera is overrun with shops and tavernas that do a lively business when cruise ships are around, four or five or more daily in season. The host at the Hotel Lucas, Ari Ziras, rightly recommended Nicholas's Taverna, where a tasty meal with wine costs only $7.50 for two.

You can easily stay a week in Santorini, particularly in beach season. The best beaches, with black volcanic sand, are around Kamari and Perissa on the other side of the island. There are also several excursions that should not be missed. Pelikan Travel Office organizes a half-day outing to Nea Kaimeni volcano, which appeared in 1711 and is still smoking in places, at less than $6 for two. You can take another tour or go on your own by local bus to Akrotiri, the Minoan town discovered in 1967.

Another archeological excursion to ancient Thera entails a two-anda-half mile climb or three-hour mule ride, but the partly excavated agora, Roman baths, theater and other ruins are worth it.

Then you must go to Oia, if only for the dramatic ride along the cliff. Buses leave regularly from Thera's main square except from 3 P.M. to 5 P.M., which is siesta time. Old Oia looks like a casbah with its whitewashed thick walls and terraces overlooking the sea. Manolis Dargentas, owner of the Kyklos restaurant, has several restored and fully equipped houses for rent at $25 a day. Also recommended are the luxury Atlantis Villas by the windmill, with room service and pool for about $37 daily a double off-season or about $42 in high season.

From Santorini, there are several ways back, depending on your time and fancy. There's always the direct ferry back to Piraeus. If you're in a hurry there are two daily flights to Athens for scarcely more than $30 a person.

We decided to return by the best-known Cyclades, Mykonos and Delos. There are regular ferries from Thera to Paros and daily island boats from Paros to Mykonos. To speed things, take a daily hovercraft, the Flying Dolphin, from Ios or Naxos to Mykonos, or you can fly from Santorini to Mykonos daily except Tuesday.

The best hotel in town is still the Leto, with 25 rooms at $46 a double including some meals off-season and $53.50 in high season.The Hotel Rohari, overlooking town, is also popular but usually full. There are plenty of pensions offering a double with shower for $15 off-season. Mykonos has several elegant garden restaurants, like the Philippi and the Eden, with international prices, but also popular tavernas such as Antonini's, where two can dine for $10 including wine. Artists and intellectuals usually gather at midnight at Peirrot's Bar

[proud_ionian]

The main reason most people go to Mykonos is to visit Delos, the smallest of the Cyclades and once the political and religious center of the Aegean. Today Delos is uninhabited and even the museum has been closed years because nobody wants to live there.

Yet tourists flock there daily even in the off season, despite the sometimes very rough half-hour boat ride, just to walk along the Sacred Way and around the ancient temples, palaces, shops and theater quarter and to admire the still-lovely Delian Lions.

From Mykonos, you can take the daily ferry back to Piraeus, leaving around 3 P.M. for a six-hour ride at a little over $10 a person, or fly to Athens on one of several daily flights that depart from a terminal that looks rather like an old farmhouse.

In addition to travel by ferry, there is a wide selection of cruises carrying visitors from one Greek island to another and lasting from a day to a week or longer.

One-day cruises set off from the coast of Athens and usually take in the three most popular Saronic Gulf islands of Hydra, Poros and Aegina at a cost about $30 including one meal and transportation from Athens.

For those with a little more time to spend, two-, three- and fourday cruises are widely offered. Prices vary, depending on the class and positioning of the cabin, beginning at about $395 a person for a couple sharing an inside cabin with one lower and one upper bed and bath for a three-day cruise.

Most major cruise companies also offer seven-day cruises, ranging greatly in routes and accommodations, at prices of from about $500 to more than $1,200 a person in a double.

Chartering your own yacht provides the opportunity to plot your own route. The National Tourist Organization of Greece and its numerous branches provide a list of all licensed companies at all ports of entry.

Boats are usually chartered with a crew, although it is possible for qualified sailors to hire a yacht themselves. The chartered yachts can reach the private coves and beaches that are inaccessible by the island roads. The yachts are usually designed to carry from four to ten.

Prices depend on the type of boat chartered, but range from $60 to $200 a day a person. It is advisable to book in advance, although last-minute arrangements are often possible. Half the fee is paid at the time of booking and the balance before departure. Food and fuel are extra. Fuel usually costs about $50 a day.

Chartering information can be obtained from the National Tourist Organization (2 Americik Street, 322-3111), from the organization's New York office or from the Greek Yacht Brokers' and Consultants' Association (981-6582 or 982-7107) or the Hellenic Professional Yacht Owners' Association (452-6335).

[proud_ionian]

Try searching at Google with these key words .

I intended to tease our Mykonian fellow travellers, but I found a piece of history instead;)

[Nick the Greek]

If i was in your shoes, i would take that as an omen mate, and stop taking the piss out of Mykonos